tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8684562468524280912024-02-20T22:22:55.672-08:00Hannah MidtbøHannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-868456246852428091.post-43054767959867909202015-07-04T02:54:00.000-07:002015-07-04T02:54:42.586-07:00World cup circuit here we go!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeym64cn4ysFqvdOf1Kc-dRfmdKqBINxSC_RRSx7aPL91EOnxJTqzR-dgz_-n_A6GpRlXcs77xIGIiENDlrSRt-9_AMtvGv562XkgjgAX-XM4tax9hOKW9MYI0qHJ1AjBJk8_dfwkeScA/s1600/10309659_10200834249617261_1301864649546563628_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeym64cn4ysFqvdOf1Kc-dRfmdKqBINxSC_RRSx7aPL91EOnxJTqzR-dgz_-n_A6GpRlXcs77xIGIiENDlrSRt-9_AMtvGv562XkgjgAX-XM4tax9hOKW9MYI0qHJ1AjBJk8_dfwkeScA/s1600/10309659_10200834249617261_1301864649546563628_n.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Exited to do competitions again! This year I decided to do all the three world cups in Europe and the world championship in Munich. Already two world cups down; one in Grindelwald, Switzerland and last weekend in Innsbruck, Austria.<br />
After not competing in any world cups for a while I didn’t really know what to expect. Though I knew my fitness was good and psyche high.<br />
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The first comp in Grindelwald was inspiring! Amazing boulders, and such a beautiful place. The boulders had a really technical and low percentage style to them. It was all about finding the right body position, with footholds close to nothing. A very European style of bouldering, where you're not able to cut your feet, or rely too much on pure strength. Instead of just powering your way through, you had to find the right sequence, which is always more interesting for both the climbers and the audience. Very good route setting!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fourth quali boulder - not the most technical one</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kenneth showing some technical skills in Grindelwald</td></tr>
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Even though I like this kind of style, I find it really difficult, and it’s very different from what I train on at home. I really need to improve and find time to work on more technical vertical/slab kind of bouldering:)<br />
The second comp in Innsbruck was definitely much more powerful. The walls were steeper and the <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kenneth getcha's on the second boulder</td></tr>
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style was more physical with pull-through moves and some double dynos. But I guess you never will escape the more technical boulders in the world cups. I struggled (again!) with the «easy, but technical»- boulders.<br />
In the qualifier I got shut down by the first slab-boulder, the boulder that almost everyone did. Luckily I did the three next boulders, the more athletic and powerful once. The fifth boulder was (surprise, surprise!) a slab, by now I probably don't have to tell you how that went<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Second boulder semi</td></tr>
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The semis started (of course) with a slab. Even tho it was more of a dynamic slab, I got shut down. The rest of the boulders were all a combination of physical and technical. I thought they would suit me, but I just couldn't find the right beta on any of them.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fourth and last boulder in semies</td></tr>
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Regardless of the result I feel I have gained a lot of experience, and I’m really motivated to train on my obvious weaknesses. The boulders in the World Cups are just so different from what I usually climb on. Since I feel I have the necessary power, I will from now on be hanging out more at the less steep sections of the gym, doing more low percentage moves and getting rid of the trust issues I have with my feet.<br />
Next World Cup for me, will be in Laval, France in just 4-weeks time. Until then I will be a busy bee, improving my weaknesses!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy travelers. Getcha power <3 good spirit</td></tr>
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Hannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-868456246852428091.post-35477324157770514812014-01-04T07:36:00.001-08:002014-01-04T07:36:21.716-08:0010 days in amazing Albarracin<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Well well, 10 days of world class bouldering in Albarracin just came to and end. It's been an awesome trip, and LOTS of climbing! This was my first time in Albarracin and it was just overwhelming how much great climbing Albarracin has to offer. It was hard to save anything, skin and energy was not a topic, we run around like kids in a candy shop, trying everything that looked tempting. I actually did send some boulders even though I left many many more projects behind. Kenneth, impressive as always, seemed unstoppable and just kept climbing and sending so many amazing hard boulders all the time. Very inspiring to watch him preform, he gives it all and has a ability to pull out everything and more than that. He's my motivation to give it all, and to not let the mind limit yourself. A muerte style! Since a picture is worth a thousand words I will leave most of the talking to the pictures :)</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Varano 8A<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtp7HrneikAxraZ0bPFt2_XlNiTaVQk9iArT6K-xBU735Vff98WHnPW5zRpTR3uVibJkXmNiEdMxCZdNdBIqZaWVLyJE7YLexS2EH9hg1hQ-PMzqRsdvSU5JFUfRAL1KzTi06n_8Oes_8/s1600/Albarracin+part+1+009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtp7HrneikAxraZ0bPFt2_XlNiTaVQk9iArT6K-xBU735Vff98WHnPW5zRpTR3uVibJkXmNiEdMxCZdNdBIqZaWVLyJE7YLexS2EH9hg1hQ-PMzqRsdvSU5JFUfRAL1KzTi06n_8Oes_8/s1600/Albarracin+part+1+009.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">One of the boulders I got the most psyched on - El Varano 8A. Really happy to actually send this one! Sooooo my style.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1AXV-DwX6NFYy1YNHIkeuhRMwEYg6yTqtcs1ClCSI9cOllTuuA5CdSeUz7233MLJx3lQiZbyP6-rtWp0AIzEGJ82bjra_4ywt4SxAL7FJfGAzkij1VsceI0IEhAUG0xhTGOhmKjms3ps/s1600/El+varno+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1AXV-DwX6NFYy1YNHIkeuhRMwEYg6yTqtcs1ClCSI9cOllTuuA5CdSeUz7233MLJx3lQiZbyP6-rtWp0AIzEGJ82bjra_4ywt4SxAL7FJfGAzkij1VsceI0IEhAUG0xhTGOhmKjms3ps/s1600/El+varno+2.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a><br />Kenneth showing how it's done - El Varano 8A.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqKnoe65nJj1iGWRy2UZZhGQKKum8B5tuopV7C-9AX_YnMXnGlrnZ_aUWs7tWd4MegwhBxQet7gQsPuZi5Y5ujq35fAp8XGSViQEAx4spAv_vIUWrhkAINqW02R15ViBmyKQU71umBRkA/s1600/EL+orjas.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqKnoe65nJj1iGWRy2UZZhGQKKum8B5tuopV7C-9AX_YnMXnGlrnZ_aUWs7tWd4MegwhBxQet7gQsPuZi5Y5ujq35fAp8XGSViQEAx4spAv_vIUWrhkAINqW02R15ViBmyKQU71umBRkA/s1600/EL+orjas.JPG" height="640" width="426" /></a><br /><br />Not the best photo, but a really good boulder - El Orejas de las reglatas 8A. Some compressed move in the beginning and then two big moves around the edge, before a more technical finish. Kenneth did this the first day. I felt close, but not enough power to stick the move up to the sloper after the undercut. NEXT time! <br /><br /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0PJ-IeWrhR5nNxvl2FNsydMhEN1MFtxTE03knnl29EmiXNiavmK_yW3gZDX8xkHfN_SHSNLgSdJfWIw73sDGuIAkl4LN0b-47Rw3srFRk4GNUDR3PgZVvVqJfYZURB3lMEP8t_dR4RHE/s1600/Albarracin+part+3+005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0PJ-IeWrhR5nNxvl2FNsydMhEN1MFtxTE03knnl29EmiXNiavmK_yW3gZDX8xkHfN_SHSNLgSdJfWIw73sDGuIAkl4LN0b-47Rw3srFRk4GNUDR3PgZVvVqJfYZURB3lMEP8t_dR4RHE/s1600/Albarracin+part+3+005.JPG" height="424" width="640" /></a><br />The classic! Cosmos 8A. No send for any of us, but many good tries. Kenneth had to stand low and jump for the hole, I could step up and go for the hole more controlled but I missed out the hold with a few centimeters. Kenneth managed to get the hole but just got too big of a swing to keep it up. I guess if he had been fresh he would have nailed it. One to be back for for sure.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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El Camino del eceso 8A. A cool steep thing. This one felt hard. We did not really figured out all the sequences think you can do it with some kind of double heal. We tried it more the getcha style way - but not getcha enough. Need a bigger biceps for this one. </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgakqpCOpWQgSvpF7Hw6Trb8GkDE9Uem3dlCHSRq7HjKSYd9ffVQmVali06LLGk8jD80Ex5ZnQUP7CRDMEPnoxY9GeMxYTgeUrpiqnQUxa0xLj54zc1CUlT4z1GGnVg0LgLrYFROvgEuaA/s1600/Zombie+nation.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgakqpCOpWQgSvpF7Hw6Trb8GkDE9Uem3dlCHSRq7HjKSYd9ffVQmVali06LLGk8jD80Ex5ZnQUP7CRDMEPnoxY9GeMxYTgeUrpiqnQUxa0xLj54zc1CUlT4z1GGnVg0LgLrYFROvgEuaA/s1600/Zombie+nation.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpE4Nd0PSe-J5jC7R7tBwlz94ecbVBsQI3h0Umpv6cjVGFq_DyazCSawit-Q_uWcExfqTEZ8Eqc5UWNdU5MJ5IHdawmJXRf5hQ4vFfFalOQDrThwVJtrvHnNwwnCi97pUiKsgg-OtpyHI/s1600/Zombie.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpE4Nd0PSe-J5jC7R7tBwlz94ecbVBsQI3h0Umpv6cjVGFq_DyazCSawit-Q_uWcExfqTEZ8Eqc5UWNdU5MJ5IHdawmJXRf5hQ4vFfFalOQDrThwVJtrvHnNwwnCi97pUiKsgg-OtpyHI/s1600/Zombie.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a><br />Zombie nation - after the big foothold broke = zombie SPANK.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjPSvZRRgtmovghEzZaRFSNYf-b9QRZ-e8LL3kSaulU9W4Z4yQUHJtYRJSPgvDgB4Vm8g2ZA_cLJpZaTUHydnatkO9kgYd7n9SOwyxQwlHprs3uDbyvR5EjW6jGfwjO7Kw8t10JU5e_gE/s1600/Fuerte+amuer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjPSvZRRgtmovghEzZaRFSNYf-b9QRZ-e8LL3kSaulU9W4Z4yQUHJtYRJSPgvDgB4Vm8g2ZA_cLJpZaTUHydnatkO9kgYd7n9SOwyxQwlHprs3uDbyvR5EjW6jGfwjO7Kw8t10JU5e_gE/s1600/Fuerte+amuer.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiNcxczJYzN38Term1XZTUzmKoYM2UJ6ofglrLRdFlgPCvLl0TF89A0-Sa74T9cMGrDBxmkJbAhncnS7bDJJyL6Yq8x7X483E7QNOKQclbHxphhGo8AEHaLrCdRImU1F8CHuw19299iiU/s1600/albarracin+part+5+020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiNcxczJYzN38Term1XZTUzmKoYM2UJ6ofglrLRdFlgPCvLl0TF89A0-Sa74T9cMGrDBxmkJbAhncnS7bDJJyL6Yq8x7X483E7QNOKQclbHxphhGo8AEHaLrCdRImU1F8CHuw19299iiU/s1600/albarracin+part+5+020.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a><br />Fuerte a muerte 8A - soooo close to send this one, fell on the move from the shoulder up to the flat hold. If I knew that the rain that supposed to come the last two days did NOT come, I would have rested for one day in hope to feel fresh and get some much needed skin to actually send this one. Damned weather report, made us completely wasted :P At least Kenneth sent this one. My fighter!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6sUYjw7Yr62sTmyXZQm037KB_uxyzZ6p519FCWhU2cEAhXGRwuW5uaIm3mpsalDB1wi0R2yvTzxnabwOiMrWn0MmlEsEyQP7TcC8jJl57TU4F91At90rPHDqBfdjHg-EZ1rezw8r824/s1600/albarracin+part+5+015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6sUYjw7Yr62sTmyXZQm037KB_uxyzZ6p519FCWhU2cEAhXGRwuW5uaIm3mpsalDB1wi0R2yvTzxnabwOiMrWn0MmlEsEyQP7TcC8jJl57TU4F91At90rPHDqBfdjHg-EZ1rezw8r824/s1600/albarracin+part+5+015.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a><br />I did not send Fuerte a muerte, but I happily sent the straight up version to the right, Manuchakra 7C. with a JUMP to the top :D oh yes. <br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmXUVj-QiGp3TOvrKyEHcD4rpNr1bLH9AdZnxnOjdaNLp9mYKssZUs4hY17QR3UHvmPJjziuT_LPy6HJLwnDcGofoxM1ONFlgzUV55Met8T8QHPkfferEdFpQ7bnNAMN1cnX0_daQibd4/s1600/zaitos.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmXUVj-QiGp3TOvrKyEHcD4rpNr1bLH9AdZnxnOjdaNLp9mYKssZUs4hY17QR3UHvmPJjziuT_LPy6HJLwnDcGofoxM1ONFlgzUV55Met8T8QHPkfferEdFpQ7bnNAMN1cnX0_daQibd4/s1600/zaitos.JPG" height="425" width="640" /></a><br />Zaitos 8A going DOWN by Kenneth. Easy match. He was soooo close to flash this one, ended up doing it in his 3.go. Máquina!<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge6HKTrSA4l8N3qT8ywUcXnZF04VsQJamSrR6Wx8wXwu8fkp_sBluU8YzwRgFYiaot3bXEJqwm6NXZ1Am_S7AOFjuRteK7BoDOQZG5iFj5XJ5JEF7NiHFcvx2C61vJcuWfR7JQLDK_2a0/s1600/albarracin+part+6+014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge6HKTrSA4l8N3qT8ywUcXnZF04VsQJamSrR6Wx8wXwu8fkp_sBluU8YzwRgFYiaot3bXEJqwm6NXZ1Am_S7AOFjuRteK7BoDOQZG5iFj5XJ5JEF7NiHFcvx2C61vJcuWfR7JQLDK_2a0/s1600/albarracin+part+6+014.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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Zaramora sit 8A - what a shame not to execute this one, so close! Really good boulder, looking forward to get back on this one :)</div>
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Kenneth sends ZARAPARILLA 8B!!!! Amazing!! That's how you execute. Really wanna do this boulder, just have to stick the crux move on Zaramora :) Psyched to train hard for coming back for this one! :D</div>
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Kenneth SOOOO close on sending Esperanza sit 8B. Looking so strong and abel to have ridiculously many tries without seemed to leak any power. A mystery why he did not send it, guess it's karma for going back. Easy next time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-dlDPFDS2Z_cQpuvpBB4nC5-MwLtFpS8zHPXNTP8crskzYh2QsKcmvHYnjfqFhCvCqAoQ_igvqU8adupIPptV4GLryEnN1uF-jI4xoTmXiOdVQ57B-R2s9GJbVafevbQn3KW5qAE0X9Y/s1600/Klem+travers+8A.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-dlDPFDS2Z_cQpuvpBB4nC5-MwLtFpS8zHPXNTP8crskzYh2QsKcmvHYnjfqFhCvCqAoQ_igvqU8adupIPptV4GLryEnN1uF-jI4xoTmXiOdVQ57B-R2s9GJbVafevbQn3KW5qAE0X9Y/s1600/Klem+travers+8A.JPG" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
We tried yet another classic, Klems travers 8A. Kenneth really close, me not so close, could not do the looooong move up where Kenneth is going on the picture. <br />
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Super nice!!! El Apeadero 7C+. </div>
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Kenneth shows us some hidden slab skills and sends Grasshopper 7B+ </div>
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We met some other norwegians, here is Lars looking comfortable on the slab.</div>
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Trond gives it all and sends the super classic Arista de los belgas 7B on our last day!</div>
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Our last day feeling completely TRASHED and having multiple holes on the fingers. My body is down but my mind is still on, here sending the classic Escaramuza (sit) 7B+. Had to fight for this one.</div>
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Well, our time in Albarracin is up. It has been a great trip and it feels sad to be home, while wanting to climb so much more in beautiful Spain and completing all the boulders we left behind. Guess we just have to stay psyched and train hard. We will be back FOR SURE Albarracin!! Hasta luego. And thank you for a great time :D</div>
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<br />Hannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-868456246852428091.post-1964645239357098482013-07-09T10:34:00.000-07:002013-07-09T10:34:45.377-07:00Summertime in beautiful Flatanger and Fosen :D<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Our two week summertrip was spent at Flatanger and Fosen! This area is the best of two worlds - high quality boulders and routes, all within an hour drive. </div>
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After a 10 hours drive from Oslo we (my boyfriend Kenneth and I) arrived to a charming old cottage we rented, just by the Sea, with a beautiful view in quiet and relaxing surroundings… and only a 2 min drive from the notorious cave of Flatanger :D<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><b><i>Welcome to Flatanger!</i></b></td></tr>
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We changed between bouldering and route climbing and some days we even did both. We would then start the day with some bouldering and end it with some routes in the cave.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>A day in Vingsand</i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Harbak in the sun :)</b></i></td></tr>
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Even though we were surrounded by world-class bouldering, my eyes were set on the cave. <br />
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I had only climbed in Flatanger for a weekend previous to this trip. But already then I knew I had to come back for a longer time soon. I was captured by some of the classic, yet newly established routes. Nordic Flower was one of them. The route starts far inside the cave and goes out the overhang for the entire time. It has two anchors, the first after 35 meters and the extension (the full link) adds another 10 ish meters. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>"Nordic flower"</i></b></td></tr>
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After working the moves and finding the right beta, it only took me something like four redpoint attempt to send it. Really happy to rap that one up! So close to pump out in the very top, clipping the anchors felt so hard with the massive rope drag. As we didn’t have that much time, I will be back for the extension next trip (don’t know when yet), really psyched on this route. It has a bouldery start then continuously pumpy steep climbing on good holds, with semi crux in between. It has a nice flow.. and makes you really exhausted ☺<br />
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I of course tried some other routes. Did two very nice 8a’s “Flaggermusmannen” and “Litt på kanten” and also a beautiful 7c named “Eventyrblanding”. The very last day I also went through “Muy Verdes” 8c+. Super nice bouldery route! Felt hard, but for sure want to get back on it when we come back ☺<br />
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Great end of a great trip when my MAN sent a really tricky hard boulder “Baboonmasters egde” 8A on our last day! Oh yes!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Baboonmasters egde (8A) going down</i></b></td></tr>
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Hannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-868456246852428091.post-31457821234781959802013-02-22T09:02:00.001-08:002013-02-22T09:47:49.851-08:00Spain with mixed emotions<br />
Even though it’s the same house, climbing mostly at the same crag Santa Linya, hanging out with the same people and with the days looking quite the same, this season in Spain has been completely different from last season. Trying to live in Spain when your boyfriend is home in Oslo is not easy.<br />
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When I first got here in late November I went straight on my long term project, La Novena Puerta (8c+), the route I left unfinished last season. I kind of surprised my self by sending it after less then two weeks on it. Going back on a route that you’ve spent a lot of time and effort on, is sometimes hard. But after training a lot at home before returning back to Spain it felt really good and the route felt a lot easier then I remembered it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Passing the first bouldery crux on La Novena Puerta (8c+)</i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>End of the second crux section, </b></i><b><i>La Novena Puerta<br />(Photo: Henning Wang)</i></b></td></tr>
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It’s a great feeling to send a route after putting lots of work into it. It gives you the right motivation to keep working on pushing your self and your limits, it opens your mind to how good the body can adapt to hard stuff if you just truly want it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Into the main crux</i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Sending time! La Novena Puerta<br />(photo: Henning Wang)</i></b></td></tr>
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Longing to get home to my boy, I’ve ending up traveling a lot of back and forth during this season in Spain. Exploring the Barcelona airport, like never before and getting phone bills of the makeable kind.<br />
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Anyway, after sending La Novena Puerta I’ve found it hard to get motivated to try something even harder. The thought of having to spend many weeks on a route is a thought that usually would just turn me on, but this time it just feels unmotivating. On the bright side this season has been a lesson on what a more aggressive approach has done to my climbing. Redpointing amuerte style, wanting to make short process of hard routes. I guess wanting to get home put things in action.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Down for business, going all in on Aitzol (8c)<br />(Photo: Henning Wang)</b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK-quQGnOUcgqnyOYzjK0tGGnDZCrm3xWxFIJBH6We2xhrPobLh9obhXERhDOrcVwh9C_bOd6L8J8KcGjVDEb-Lqj5Yxfon4sLaU4EdB83oUNMdgpOBGO-t8mepNDJVnaT7mR4nZb5FKI/s1600/66781_191125247693668_1520085659_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK-quQGnOUcgqnyOYzjK0tGGnDZCrm3xWxFIJBH6We2xhrPobLh9obhXERhDOrcVwh9C_bOd6L8J8KcGjVDEb-Lqj5Yxfon4sLaU4EdB83oUNMdgpOBGO-t8mepNDJVnaT7mR4nZb5FKI/s640/66781_191125247693668_1520085659_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Sending Remeneo (8b+)<br />(Photo: Manabu Yoneyama)</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Once again I’m back in Spain, this time after spending almost a month in Norway. This trip will be the last before returning back home to Oslo for good. I don’t have the ticket home yet, but I guess I will stay here for about 2-4 weeks.<br />
<br />
My time in Spain is coming to an end, the remaining time I will spend on trying to finish up some 8c-ish routes I’ve been working, routes I’ve been feeling pretty close on. Routes like Aitzol in Margalef, Open your mind and Aplom pa la Remeno in Santa Linya. I might also check out the new linkup my brother did recently, Analógica Natural Extension (9a) in Santa Linya, but only for future reference :)<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Hannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-868456246852428091.post-47708496013527820072012-08-21T11:28:00.000-07:002012-08-21T13:20:06.040-07:00Freshening up.After a involuntarily two week brake from climbing, it felt fantastic to be on my way to Innsbruck with climbing climbing climbing on the agenda.<br />
When the plane cut through the dark and rainy clouds hanging over Oslo, I felt like the virus that had been haunting me the last couple of weeks, was finally left behind. In front of me where only sunshine and blue skies.<br />
<br />
My optimism and the sunny day continued when I landed in Munich, but with my feet firmly back on the ground, I was once again reminded that thought I was feeling much better, my body was still not back to 100%...<br />
The thought of a relapse to the sickness and more time spent without training scared me enough to hold back and not push it too far in Innsbruck. As a compromise I climbed on hard routes...just not that many of them:)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
I really like Innsbruck, It`s a great place to shape it up! The combination of incredible training facilities and so many talented climbers cheering each other is just uniq and super motivating.<br />
<br />
I wish I could have stayed a bit longer, but after "just" 4 days of climbing, my time in Innsbruck was up. Together with Magnus I headed back to Norway to the southern city of Kristiansand for the amazing DWS competition Norwegian Rockmaster.<br />
Like last year's Norwegian Rockmaster in Arendal the competition was once again a great success! This mainly thanks to Børre Berghaven and he's crew who really put in an incredible effort to make the event a great show.<br />
Loud music, speedboats, hot tubs, big price money, great people, good party and just an amazing atmosphere! I really hope Børre will keep up this tradition and I am allready looking forward to next year:)<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLwIc_vr3gToguDh6woB4OprP2SOdGskauIx9siybQO6HycWkZacCUO8E1UJEcPIImFWSAeahtg6WiyyYDIAk9fdXAVrlZm7FLNNoAr5l2YLSfxUTpdx4VVYYVkFRkX7jwcgYVMZl7so/s1600/7808323170_5964f08794_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLwIc_vr3gToguDh6woB4OprP2SOdGskauIx9siybQO6HycWkZacCUO8E1UJEcPIImFWSAeahtg6WiyyYDIAk9fdXAVrlZm7FLNNoAr5l2YLSfxUTpdx4VVYYVkFRkX7jwcgYVMZl7so/s400/7808323170_5964f08794_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>"the first qualification route"</i><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXs8REj7M5bVi9a6VXNW4idZNQPI7aicAzH4NHL8IVD9CS-96_dpjIfOjFhumTULp8syxUEUBjdDOHHwhq-Tu9f5YlenKSy1zOSnjxzsBH2GsNkq7gLhxnc6XL9RbefDwPDlRPqVNTWk/s1600/7810865098_2ec5579417_b_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXs8REj7M5bVi9a6VXNW4idZNQPI7aicAzH4NHL8IVD9CS-96_dpjIfOjFhumTULp8syxUEUBjdDOHHwhq-Tu9f5YlenKSy1zOSnjxzsBH2GsNkq7gLhxnc6XL9RbefDwPDlRPqVNTWk/s640/7810865098_2ec5579417_b_2.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>"Halfway up the final route... and a scary victory jump from 14 meters to come"<br /><br />Thanks to Lars Verket for the pictures!</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Results in this years Rockmaster:<br />
<br />
<br />
Women:<br />
<br />
1. Hannah Midtbø<br />
<br />
2. Mayan Smith Gobat<br />
<br />
3. Helena Aleman<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Men:<br />
<br />
1. Magnus Midtbø<br />
<br />
2. Jan Hojer<br />
<br />
3. Daniel Jung<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
Hannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-868456246852428091.post-76911454989253264202012-08-07T12:39:00.000-07:002012-08-07T12:41:20.269-07:00Sick of being sick!Since I returned to Oslo in May I have been focusing on hard indoor training.<br />
Primarily I train for the next season in Spain (late fall), but to put in some more short-term goals I have decided to attend a few comps. The training in the gym is similar to what you get in the comps, so this seemed like a good time to check out some of the events.<br />
This was going great untill about 10 days ago when I suddenly had to stop due to some kind of illness. I`m now pushing my tenth day of suffering... and I still feel bad.<br />
I´v been feeling strong and super psyched for training latley, so I find it very demotivating to get sick and have to slow down the pace.<br />
<br />
This weekend is the World Cup in Imst, an event I was looking forward to attending. When I first felt sick with a cold 10 days ago, I'd never thought that it would keep me from participating. Instead optimistic as ever I saw it as a chance to squeeze in a bit longer rest period.<br />
<br />
As expected the cold knew it`s visiting time, and a short lazy week later it seemed all but gone.<br />
Unfortunately for me the cold aparently left the door wide open for some of it`s nasty friends as it was leaving, so after the cold went out, I have literally been HOT.<br />
<br />
The last week has plagued me with high fever and heavy headaches, and left me in a body with muscle pain and no energy.<br />
I'm not really sure what kind of new illness I have gotten, but I guess it's only a "harmless" virus...<br />
<br />
Before I got ill I felt in a great shape. Even after many hard workouts, the body managed to recover and build it self up quickly. It's strange how quick the body repair's it self from hard training, while when it comes to removing a illness it just seems to take forever...<br />
After the first week when the cold seemed to let go, I imidiately exposed myself for training again, but as soon as I started to climb I got completely overheated and dizzy.<br />
The signal for not wanting to pull hard was quite clear. The body simply shut down the system... <br />
<br />
I like to think that I have control over my body, but when you get sick is noticeable (and kinda scary) how little you really can control.<br />
I was really looking forward to be competing in Imst this weekend, but no matter how much the head like to be in charge, the body will have the last word in the end.<br />
Sometimes it's hard to face the facts, but when it gets like this I guess you just have to give in and let the body do what it needs to get back on track again.<br />
<br />
With my flights to Imst already booked I have choosen to stay optimistic and postpone the departure ticket to Sunday, instead of throwing it away completely.<br />
The competition will be done Saturday, but the Norwegian national team will have a training camp the week after in Innsbruck and Imst. If I finaly recover by then, I will join them.<br />
<br />
I am hopeing that even thougth I won´t get to compete I might at least get the chance to try the routes. Guess that's a pitty comfort.<br />
My first World Cup in a long time which should have been in Imst is no longer happening, but for this small set back I am hopeing I´ll soon be back on track and ready for the World Championships in Paris!<br />
<div>
<br /></div>Hannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-868456246852428091.post-57133476042265831432012-05-14T08:30:00.000-07:002012-05-18T01:50:59.362-07:00Last day, last try, last move...<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Well, my
stay in Spain has once again come to an end. I’ve had a great season, despite
the disappointment of not finishing my main goal, Novena Puerta (8c+).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I’ve been
trying Novena pretty intensely the last few weeks, feeling stronger after
almost every rest day and making great progress.<br />
The conditions have unfortunately not been on my side, being the end of the season
in Santa Linya. <br />
The route is (at this time of the year) in constant shade, but rising temps,
wet holds and high humidity makes everything feel harder. <br />
<br />
The route also takes forever to dry up, and there has been a lot of rain lately…
Luckily most of the route has somehow stayed dry, but not all. <br />
Most annoyingly a tufa just where you enter the upper crux has been wet,
forcing me to try to climb the upper boulder crux with a wet hand...<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">My first
encounter with Novena was back in January. I was feeling in great shape after
Fabelita (my first 8c and first female accent of the route) and I was looking
for a new project. <br />
Having skipped 8b+, I found my self more confused with climbing grades then
ever. <br />
It seemed to me more a question of finding something I liked, something I was
really motivated to work on, then a given number grade. <br />
Of course, the higher number the more work, but if I try hard enough, the body,
at least so far, seems to adapt.<br />
<br />
I really liked the look of the Novena line, so I went through the moves a few
times to see what it was all about. <br />
The route is 22 meters long, super steep and bouldery. <br />
It breaks down to a 12 meter 8b+/8c, followed by a decent rest, before another
10 meter 8b+. <br />
The first part starts off with a hard boulder (up to a bad kneebar rest), followed by sustained hard technical
climbing to the rest. </span><span lang="EN-US"><br />
</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI_hMmUsi8Kt5ylL4N9F8tZlMHpW-9Ga5U6DyTRCtXwx_5bcHYildUDmXv9HI9bl2-GrJRw7SJL8k58tkJH1sIgf8AGk8URGREIobvvUWOu6Og8pAHVoS9esjSJZez9x-pxvrZo9QCg_o/s1600/Novena+22.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI_hMmUsi8Kt5ylL4N9F8tZlMHpW-9Ga5U6DyTRCtXwx_5bcHYildUDmXv9HI9bl2-GrJRw7SJL8k58tkJH1sIgf8AGk8URGREIobvvUWOu6Og8pAHVoS9esjSJZez9x-pxvrZo9QCg_o/s400/Novena+22.jpg" width="317" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>The rest after the start-boulder<br />(Photo: Henning Wang)</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1vJNkfRDLPan7DPJgdtTl6lgt2xmvEWiJqoJTVAVz2mdMMfxP0ukjQ9PQp5MPvzx48uh_qzlXH72SPPDxMQHAioV4wd8hnZ5HRU8KHREnREjmy3yI0u40s-U89Y0cmpkA76O0NRM07gA/s1600/Novena+20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1vJNkfRDLPan7DPJgdtTl6lgt2xmvEWiJqoJTVAVz2mdMMfxP0ukjQ9PQp5MPvzx48uh_qzlXH72SPPDxMQHAioV4wd8hnZ5HRU8KHREnREjmy3yI0u40s-U89Y0cmpkA76O0NRM07gA/s640/Novena+20.jpg" width="584" /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh9Yh9Q8oGJ3j3nFxso_tJJ1uPQ72Vuq3M1fRAWLB9GH74iTH8jFXsMK_6sYO1pTZX1xKB5y6wk8YvKknwUM1mBNrbSaSJzxS2MmZt-GT5E3tCJuAmg50IoCTBxsljMVpsKzocyw1iEiQ/s1600/Novena+18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh9Yh9Q8oGJ3j3nFxso_tJJ1uPQ72Vuq3M1fRAWLB9GH74iTH8jFXsMK_6sYO1pTZX1xKB5y6wk8YvKknwUM1mBNrbSaSJzxS2MmZt-GT5E3tCJuAmg50IoCTBxsljMVpsKzocyw1iEiQ/s640/Novena+18.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 13px;"><b>The final moves on the first part<br />(Photo: H. Wang)</b></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">The rest is a big sloppy “horn” with good feet to the right, you can get some help from a heel and a bad kneebar, but most of the time you are better of hanging on your arms.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK9_q_oFl0R5m5v1W1PMDTuZb3fgGABMXGBojMBcaPVY7DRRuB_T3L2Hvga22ngeMgfIM6AV7St6E3BjBj8_JXw2jORVZD7ZYhEafDjfl9ZVJTYGb8F3O23DV5X3x-jd_bCOP2ez6fjIQ/s1600/Novena+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK9_q_oFl0R5m5v1W1PMDTuZb3fgGABMXGBojMBcaPVY7DRRuB_T3L2Hvga22ngeMgfIM6AV7St6E3BjBj8_JXw2jORVZD7ZYhEafDjfl9ZVJTYGb8F3O23DV5X3x-jd_bCOP2ez6fjIQ/s640/Novena+13.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><i><b>"Mid rest"<br />(Photo: H. Wang)</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">After the mid rest you are thrown into a technical 7C-ish boulder followed by a few long moves before the final bad "rest". It's about 60 degrees overhanging and you need a lot of body tension just to stay on the wall.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">From this “rest” you get a sloper and have to do some technical footwork. This
is followed by a few big moves to a decent undercling and the final crux, a
dyno to a slopey jug just below the anchor.<br />
<br />
The route climbs great but, maybe not so surprisingly, I found it to be really
really hard. <br />
I could barely do some of the moves individually and linking more then a few
moves seemed impossible. <br />
I did not really see myself sending it in the near future, so I left it,
focusing my attention on Rollito Sharma Extension (8c) and Ingravids Eskerpes
(8c). <br />
During the next months I got stronger. So after sending Ingravids, I returned
once again to Novena. <br />
The moves still felt really hard, and I could not link the bottom boulder from
the ground, but progression came fast and not before long I was making good links doing
the route in 4 parts. <br />
Not long after that, the first heavy rain came, the whole cave got soaked, and
I had to leave the route in favor of something dry. <br />
<br />
The next 2 weeks I spent in Margalef working mainly on Aitzol (8c). My finger
strength was not the best after months on reasonably “big” holds in the cave,
so Margalef was a perfect cure. <br />
I felt close on Aitzol, but the cave dried up, and as Margalef is a 100km drive
from our house, I decided to leave it and focus my remaining time on Novena.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Back on
Novena I now felt much stronger (thank you Margalef).</span><span lang="EN-US">
After a few days of tries, I was falling at the very top of the first part just
below the mid rest (8b+/8c). One rest day later, I was linking through the whole
first part, falling in what seems to be the crux for me, stabbing into a one
finger pocket from a very small pinch in the boulder just after the mid rest.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtLEHEYDfoU17-B1XjvjmKXbkN5hL0IwLc0fL0UH82H-5d0WAOBPjTBU_pnpGz3U9wPsTYTRkaT4am7NHBMcRKzM8WY3KLnQlW4GcsyH35p1BTNRNWDvyGrndkknnyBd4uv1AKtFZn6OA/s1600/389936_10150482630793291_253368088290_8428485_36186198_n-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtLEHEYDfoU17-B1XjvjmKXbkN5hL0IwLc0fL0UH82H-5d0WAOBPjTBU_pnpGz3U9wPsTYTRkaT4am7NHBMcRKzM8WY3KLnQlW4GcsyH35p1BTNRNWDvyGrndkknnyBd4uv1AKtFZn6OA/s640/389936_10150482630793291_253368088290_8428485_36186198_n-1.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="448" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><i><b>My friend Gerard Rull on the mono crux on Novena Puerta</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">
After falling I was also able to link from the mid rest to the top twice. This
got me super motivated. For the first time, I was actually feeling like I might
be able to do the route.<br />
</span><span lang="EN-US">
Running out of time, every go seemed more and more precious. The first part
requires so much focus and effort, so much that I was rarely able to get
through it more then once a day.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">In the mid rest I would stay for between 7-10 min, try to recover as much as
possible, only to get shut down by slightly missing the stab to the mono a few
meters above… </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">
I found it very hard mentally to force myself to try to rest for so long
knowing this horrible low percentage move was looming just above. I knew It
could go If I just got there enough times or got a little lucky, and a few days
later, that’s what happened.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb5LIQyX8sxFAAZ9D7ukT2DykDG4g4ln9V-r2pvcwdugA30ejGXfMrrz-UGQp4UocCQCO6FzzNMawLkGHzniO9J5n2VqsNLmXVgavEgDbWibcZl_LFMeMdae9KtudO8XF5qVEVXqDPYb0/s1600/Novena+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb5LIQyX8sxFAAZ9D7ukT2DykDG4g4ln9V-r2pvcwdugA30ejGXfMrrz-UGQp4UocCQCO6FzzNMawLkGHzniO9J5n2VqsNLmXVgavEgDbWibcZl_LFMeMdae9KtudO8XF5qVEVXqDPYb0/s640/Novena+12.jpg" width="458" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>"Sticking the mono (I use two fingers, but only one finger gets deep.. I found it easier to hit the pocket that way)"</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirxfw-YvM0XKfhS-epJC8ZYednR3IC2y_JwG3rxUH8ENNGuVroVmzMb61tSTcuvsurB2n0VsvODVl4yYiftSzQqmaZXS7a8vKrPN1dVRpz6Ct_B1bCmrrUqqCLohnowfZefls3io2nEvk/s1600/Novena+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirxfw-YvM0XKfhS-epJC8ZYednR3IC2y_JwG3rxUH8ENNGuVroVmzMb61tSTcuvsurB2n0VsvODVl4yYiftSzQqmaZXS7a8vKrPN1dVRpz6Ct_B1bCmrrUqqCLohnowfZefls3io2nEvk/s640/Novena+8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>"Going for the next good hold"<br />(Photo: H. Wang)</b></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US"> </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span lang="EN-US">I stuck the mono move and got to the next good holds. Feeling much more pumped
then I thought I would I decided to try to rest as little as possible and make
a run for it.</span></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKTYddqSPtwlv8Z_xqR0SmjAWigo3xgWHNIKlbi-V3BEiwDH1sw6xfPHndVhvXXxIBNSJ3IVfA3OJocCrNGqNmlGohKFivcd3tgIGpfW8mNZUS-68CkH3vlC7ws9bllUS7wmg03CixhDE/s1600/Novena+6.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKTYddqSPtwlv8Z_xqR0SmjAWigo3xgWHNIKlbi-V3BEiwDH1sw6xfPHndVhvXXxIBNSJ3IVfA3OJocCrNGqNmlGohKFivcd3tgIGpfW8mNZUS-68CkH3vlC7ws9bllUS7wmg03CixhDE/s400/Novena+6.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1-1IafZfI78gLfd5peOtvho8SSkMPuNgwH7D7NN_fQLvmuTEoHh02wzNPA3y92xWtorYTvxvlCvWFIpqyjsAJkfkCyCFkbmgZ3K0jdXLvB0fsBqtTF0UxPzTAUs5wYmZUUxdpyIpZGMM/s1600/Novena+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1-1IafZfI78gLfd5peOtvho8SSkMPuNgwH7D7NN_fQLvmuTEoHh02wzNPA3y92xWtorYTvxvlCvWFIpqyjsAJkfkCyCFkbmgZ3K0jdXLvB0fsBqtTF0UxPzTAUs5wYmZUUxdpyIpZGMM/s640/Novena+4.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><b><i>"Running through the last moves... Getting more and more pumped"</i></b><br />
<b><i>(Photo: H. Wang)</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US">This got me through to the very last move, the final crux, the jump to the big
sloppy jug from a weird position holding a good undercling low down and a small
edge. </span><br />
<br />
<span lang="EN-US">
I jumped, got my hand a centimeter from the good part of the hold, and slipped
off…</span>With only a
few days left, I was lowered down, physically and mentally completely
exhausted. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">
I felt like climbing on something else for a while. I needed to reload my energy
and motivation for Novena. Unfortunately there was no time for that, the temps seemed
to be rising from one day to the next. If I wanted to do this route this year I
had no choice but to get back on it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">A couple of
rainy rest days later, I was back on the route. This time thought without the
motivation or the conditions. I tried, but not as hard as I had been trying
before, it was useless. <br />
If you don’t want it bad enough, you don’t get it… <br />
<br />
I had to find my motivation again fast and pull my self together. <br />
Freshening up on my “Rock Warriors Way” (the book) helped. <br />
Once again I was focusing on seeing falling at the top as part of the process and
a part of the challenge. <br />
Not wasting my energy on “I should have done this already, I god damn fell on
the top jug, bullshit-attitude”.<br />
<br />
There are definitely times on a hard redpoints when things arn’t going your way,
times when you find yourself confronted with despair and fading motivation. <br />
This is when you have to look deep inside to find why you choose the challenge in
the first place. <br />
If I wanted to clip a lot of anchors I could have gone from crag to crag doing 8a’s
and 8b’s. <br />
I choose to be here, I choose to work this route, I wanted this challenge… and
here I am, frustrated over the challenge. <br />
It is at times like these, when you really get to test your self, not just
physically but mentally, you really learn something about yourself.<br />
<br />
I learned I could not just give up, not like this, not so close. <br />
But only 1 day remained…<br />
I needed more time, enough time to get a proper chance to really try to do it. <br />
With my head back on track and the body rested, I decided to extend my stay
with one more week. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">My extended
week began with overwhelming heat and rain, and the route got wet again pretty
fast. <br />
But with this new heat, it dried up a lot quicker then usually. It was still
quite wet, but compared to how slow it dried up before, it was looking
promising.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">With some
wet holds and temps pushing 30 it was far from perfect, but the psyche was high
and I was totally ready to go hard and really push myself. </span><span lang="EN-US">
I had one day on and one day off, so as to be able to recover properly and climb
my best when climbing.<br />
It worked pretty well, I was feeling stronger and stronger, getting through the
first part (8b+/8c) up to three times a day at the end of the week. <br />
A tufa in the crux boulder was now wet, and once again I found myself slightly missing
on the stab move to the mono, now with the addition of a wet hand. 3 times I
actually got the mono, just to have the wet hand slip off going for the next
hold…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Then, in
overwhelming heat (about 32 degrees) and fading light, I set of for my last try
of the trip.<br />
It was my second try of the evening, but I had skipped the morning session and
was still feeling strong.<br />
I got to the mid rest, feeling a little more tired then the try before, but
still able to recover. <br />
In the boulder I then got past the mono crux (for my second time)! <br />
I was very surprised, I had almost chosen not to climb because of the heat. It
just felt way too warm to climb something on my limit in these conditions.<br />
Had it not been the last day I would have rested, but being the last day I had
nothing to loose, I wanted to go home knowing I had done everything I could.<br />
<br />
Climbing past the mono gave me such a rush, a truly amazing feeling. <br />
I tried not to rush it, to stay focused and just let the body do what it was supposed
to do. My mental aspect was in the right order, I even felt okay climbing in
the heat. <br />
I felt really strong actually... but once again… I thought falling on the last
move once was bad enough… and then to fall on it again… <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I guess you
can sum up many positive things about the process and learning and so on, but
to be honest, it feels closer to my heart just to scream JODER! I wanted to do
this route so bad, I really tried harder then I ever have on a route before…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">It was therefor
a little emotional leaving beautiful Spain, my mission yet unfinished. <br />
I’m still so motivated to climb on it, and feeling like in my best shape ever,
it’s hard to make sense of going home to climb indoors, not staying to use the
shape I’ve been working up to finish Novena Puerta…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<span lang="EN-US">I left
Spain light handed, I literally did. Not only did I not do my route, but I lost
my bag on the bus to the Barcelona airport. So my climbing gear is still in
Spain. I guess it has to be some kind of sign…</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<span lang="EN-US">But, lucky
for me, I’m coming back to Spain the next season, hopefully feeling even
stronger! But for now, I really have to find some new motivation. Training in
the gym does not feel that tempting…<a href="http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=868456246852428091" name="_GoBack"></a><o:p></o:p></span></div>Hannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-868456246852428091.post-49712022222136325512012-03-29T09:10:00.000-07:002012-03-29T14:57:12.210-07:00Margalef!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoShde6ZTv6JNnlkA72r1QUvbqAmj-24-2RAD98E50QJM6RoyxHcHRZS4rZOkRKvzjymo_S5fTxt4rUdDuEEDZ-kRXUzV0zk5zqRyGKMK8WpB5agPxDZArJspvEjQIbcki3wa4Gta6jwI/s1600/sativa+8a+liten.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoShde6ZTv6JNnlkA72r1QUvbqAmj-24-2RAD98E50QJM6RoyxHcHRZS4rZOkRKvzjymo_S5fTxt4rUdDuEEDZ-kRXUzV0zk5zqRyGKMK8WpB5agPxDZArJspvEjQIbcki3wa4Gta6jwI/s400/sativa+8a+liten.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Margalef</i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Etter flere måneder uten regn, kom til slutt uværet. I to
dager rant gatene over, halve Balaguer ble mørklagt, og tordenvær lyste opp den
ellers mørke himmelen dag og natt. Santa Linya er rustet opp til å tåle en del
nedbør, men kommer det store mengder, begynner det å sige, og deler av hulen
forblir våt (altfor) lenge.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ting gikk altså ikke helt som planlagt. Å gå ”a muerte” på
Novena tok en brå slutt. Nå har det allerede gått en
ukes tid siden regnet. Ruten har tørket litt opp, men da det fortsatt drypper og siger vann fra mange partier, blir det vanskelig å klatre på. Er jeg heldig er
Novena tørr ”nok” om en ukes tid, er jeg uheldig, forblir ruten våt resten av
sesongen.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Heldigvis finnes det mange andre fete crag i Catalunya, så ingen grunn til å ligge på latsiden. Mens regnet siger igjennom i Santa
Linya, utnytter jeg muligheten til å klatre andre steder. Foreløpig har jeg vært (fram og tilbake) et par
ganger til Margalef. Det er 1,5 times kjøretur fra Santa Linya, så det føles
naturlig nok litt mer drastisk å dra dit enn ned til Santa Linya hulen, som kun er en liten gåtur unna.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Uansett, tilbake
til Margalef. Til å begynne med føltes det rart å klatre på små pockets
etter å ha klatret så mye på ”større” tak i den betydelig brattere hulen i Santa
Linya. Ambisiøs som jeg var, tok det likevel ikke lang tid før jeg var oppe på den
klassiske 8c´n Aitzol.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4KRB7h63c2gMMmqHwnjTtb2qznd_x9CkMUgaWfMUeG0WtrekJ2-zWP8Ngk8GTMAHmi1DNh3kFMtMAl_5aWMNKtlb029gQHW6x7NhWqC9Dtol5pGOl3-m04TILj44QL18oqxAUuxWJWw/s1600/edu_en_aitzol.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4KRB7h63c2gMMmqHwnjTtb2qznd_x9CkMUgaWfMUeG0WtrekJ2-zWP8Ngk8GTMAHmi1DNh3kFMtMAl_5aWMNKtlb029gQHW6x7NhWqC9Dtol5pGOl3-m04TILj44QL18oqxAUuxWJWw/s400/edu_en_aitzol.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="268" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><i><b>Edu Marin gjennom cruxet på Aiztol (2009)</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Aitzol er den mest gåtte 8c ruten i Margalef. Den er
relativt buldrete og kommer i hovedsak ned til to flytt. Den har et rykte på
seg for å være soft, men det tror jeg er mer en kombinasjon av at mange har
prøvd den og at cruxet passer noen bedre enn andre. Soft eller ei, ruten ligger
på sektoren Finestra, og går en veldig opplagt og innbydende linje ut en nokså
bratt vegg ca. 25 meter.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Yn2B09wYDEiaKsjCEkJ0PXqGbJYQOTiQFoKn3FfRVIEn6gA9a0DgqpBs3vTxS_jDMHYx_CGXSi7FvVXw_Wj6bisl5tYZeG5fFftGpw5e9lwTAaLYmNlHbEOWiI3d1fXsuBu9zdybV18/s1600/BOONE_SPEED-101021266.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Yn2B09wYDEiaKsjCEkJ0PXqGbJYQOTiQFoKn3FfRVIEn6gA9a0DgqpBs3vTxS_jDMHYx_CGXSi7FvVXw_Wj6bisl5tYZeG5fFftGpw5e9lwTAaLYmNlHbEOWiI3d1fXsuBu9zdybV18/s640/BOONE_SPEED-101021266.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><b style="font-style: italic;">Daila Ojeda går Aitzol (2010</b><i>)</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Etter å ha gått igjennom flyttene noen ganger, vil jeg
beskrive ruten som ganske ”ærlig”, i den forstand at flyttene er veldig rett på, få
fottak og åpenbare håndtak. Ruten har et markert crux, som kommer brutalt etter
noen allerede harde (men på langt nær like harde) flytt. Man blir rett og slett
kastet inn i cruxet. Cruxet innebærer å stabbe inn i en dårlig trefinger
pocket, deretter helt utstrakt, neglekrimpe en liten krimp, for så å plassere
høyre foten på høyde med hode (uten å miste spenningen i kroppen som er helt
utstrakt) og videre ”mantle” seg opp til neste krimp.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jeg slet veldig med å gjøre cruxseksjonen separat, noe som
ikke lovet bra, og som til å begynne med endte med at jeg tok ned slyngene
allerede etter første tur opp, det føltes rett og slett for hardt. Men ruten
skulle ikke gi slipp så lett, den gnagde bak i hodet hele kvelden etter, det
føltes for enkelt å bare gi opp <i>så</i> lett. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Man skal vel ikke gi seg bare på grunn av litt motgang? Etter en konfrontasjon med arbeidsmoralen, tok jeg meg
sammen og hang opp slyngene igjen. Denne gang innstilt på å gi ruten en sjanse
og virkelig ta i. Fristelsen til å gi opp og prøve noe annet (som er alt for
lett når man har mange ruter å ta av), ble overvunnet nok en gang. Noen ganger
må man få en dose spank før progresjonen slår inn, slite og jobbe hardt er
viktig for å kunne utvikle seg videre. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Det skal heldigvis sies at jobber man hardt nok, får man det
til! Fjerde gangen opp ruten, fikk jeg omsider til crux flyttene separat. Dette
er noe jeg virkelig elsker med klatring, det å føle frustrasjonen ved å stange
på noe, helt sjanseløs på et flytt. Så omsider, etter å ha prøvd hardt om og om
igjen, kjenne at man utvikler seg og plutselig får man det ”umulige” til.
Progresjon i et nøtteskall, men allikevel en følelse jeg aldri vil gi fra meg.
Og en følelse jeg virkelig drives framover av.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Jeg går nå alle flyttene på Aitzol, men må nok ha litt bedre
kontroll på cruxet før ruten kan sendes.
For min del er flyttene utenom cruxet gjevnt tunge og pumpende. Jeg er
super gira på ruten, og det føles godt (og tungt) å klatre på små tak igjen! Akkurat
nå gjør det ingenting at det er vått i Santa Linya litt til <span style="font-family: Wingdings;">J</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>Hannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-868456246852428091.post-35754983766456789992012-03-18T13:06:00.001-07:002012-03-18T13:06:22.617-07:00Ingravids Eskerpes!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSP02eqr_tywPMCgI0xudIKV745cjMX1YjAIO7SloMSiHJeByWOj8bUcXPqWgq1DkhBxcJIAi35m35ZOQchrpSMtS1Idq6dL3_rqIaDZJ8ZfxWKABjaW5RT7A_3SR6fPIh3nJvHkqonRk/s1600/Hannah+Ingravids+%281+of+2%29.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSP02eqr_tywPMCgI0xudIKV745cjMX1YjAIO7SloMSiHJeByWOj8bUcXPqWgq1DkhBxcJIAi35m35ZOQchrpSMtS1Idq6dL3_rqIaDZJ8ZfxWKABjaW5RT7A_3SR6fPIh3nJvHkqonRk/s640/Hannah+Ingravids+%281+of+2%29.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Ingravids Eskerpes 8c</i></span></b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><i> </i></span></b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><i> </i></span></b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><i> </i></span></b></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><i> </i></span></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Etter å ha investert en del tid på å gå
Rollito Sharma Extension, føltes Ingravids som en naturlig overgang.
Ingravids er den opprinnelige og betydelig hardere starten av Rollito.
Klatringen er mer atletisk og mer variert. Den begynner på større tak
med en del rotasjoner fram og tilbake, før den plutselig blir mye mer
intens. Først en seperat seksjon med selve cruxet på Ingravids, for så
rett inn i Rollito catchen, som er selve cruxet på Rollito. Da extension
på Ingravids er samme som extension på Rollito, hadde jeg en idé om å
gå hele veien.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsiWCf2uZkisFKDDrms7uwk0Qj8urAGh5Xgtv6YP4AOMlzu3lHrvL1UB7LSSny2czIfLoYOUoFEu0OWLIbzA8cEcW3hjGt4c9OqdT_W9nnMRPIlw1wGvrKXKowK9f_oklD6Bteyv_V8Bg/s1600/Hannah+Ingravids+%282+of+2%29.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsiWCf2uZkisFKDDrms7uwk0Qj8urAGh5Xgtv6YP4AOMlzu3lHrvL1UB7LSSny2czIfLoYOUoFEu0OWLIbzA8cEcW3hjGt4c9OqdT_W9nnMRPIlw1wGvrKXKowK9f_oklD6Bteyv_V8Bg/s640/Hannah+Ingravids+%282+of+2%29.jpg" width="512" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Siste del av Ingravids cruxet, Rollito cruxet neste </span></b></i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Temperaturen har dessverre steget betraktelig
siden jeg gikk Rollito. I varmen var det mye hardere å hente seg inn på
de gode takene, og det ble betydelig mer pumpende enn jeg hadde
forventet. Etter en god fight opp til første ankeret, sa jeg meg derfor
ferdig med Ingravids, hvertfall for denne gang.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0Y4oh9sH1ZfVj50norMMI9e9FmtYvDu2P4K7WkMyCn2zu3qkKKeoxq48hk1C8l2wkCdJlVHU3djPGGGitxZbonkkIFXuaW6TavwbF8IRLRiduI_GZgw1hzkHMXT050mKZZncYmLv5Dc/s1600/Mu+-+Ingravids+%281+of+1%29.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0Y4oh9sH1ZfVj50norMMI9e9FmtYvDu2P4K7WkMyCn2zu3qkKKeoxq48hk1C8l2wkCdJlVHU3djPGGGitxZbonkkIFXuaW6TavwbF8IRLRiduI_GZgw1hzkHMXT050mKZZncYmLv5Dc/s640/Mu+-+Ingravids+%281+of+1%29.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Min belgiske venninne, Muriel Sarkany, entrer Rollito cruxet p</span></b></i></span><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>å</b></i></span><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;"> sin bestigning av Ingravids</span> </b></i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Extension kunne nok fint ha gått med litt arbeid, men siden denne linken
ikke innvolverer noe nytt terreng hadde det da kun blitt for 8c+
graden. <br />Grader er heldigvis ikke alt, og er mye mer gira på å si meg
ferdig med ruten og fortsette videre på neste prosjekt! Hva skal man
si, det er nok å ta av, å være bortskjemt blir en del av hverdagen.<br /><br />Heten
sniker seg som sagt på og det begynner for alvor å bli varmt! Det er
nok bare å innse at Spania oppholdet går mot en slutt for denne gang.
Uansett, vi får se hvor lenge man holder seg gående i varmen. Planen er
hvertfall å gå a muerte på Novena Puerta (8c+). Novena føles som et godt
hakk over hva jeg har klatret på tidligere, men med motivasjonen på
topp, er jeg klar for å presse meg maks for å få denne ned, før
sesongen er over og jeg må ta farvel med Spania for denne gang. <br />
For å beskrive ruten, må jeg først si at Novena Puerta er helt rå,
klatringen er sinnsykt tøff! Den befinner seg helt innerst i hulen og
går en av de bratteste linjene rett ut. Novena Puerta går til det første
ankeret (av 2) og slutter i et digert hull ca halveis ut hulen. Den er
"bare" 22 meter, noe som for meg gjør det hele veldig intenst. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqo3Q3BxJk4iu_wlpjmxaaVkemPYt84yQv38THFYXOBssdnxJezMm6hyqb-YKzmKNF6NB8Ci0ztzccz1Y8FWrGkLS2M1GsRkRq7kSWQv-9heFc_mV6Ljl9z0z-MMPVRVSGJEZ2PglPOd8/s1600/Novena+med+tegning+%281+of+1%29.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqo3Q3BxJk4iu_wlpjmxaaVkemPYt84yQv38THFYXOBssdnxJezMm6hyqb-YKzmKNF6NB8Ci0ztzccz1Y8FWrGkLS2M1GsRkRq7kSWQv-9heFc_mV6Ljl9z0z-MMPVRVSGJEZ2PglPOd8/s640/Novena+med+tegning+%281+of+1%29.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><b>Linjen til Novena Puerta</b></i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Går man videre hele veien ut hulen blir den La Novena Enmineda 9a/+ (45
meter) som min bror Magnus gikk i 2008, men det har jeg ingen intension
om å prøve meg på.<br />
<br />
Videoen av Magnus på Novena Enmienda fra Youtube: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRHSd4Q7Tq0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRHSd4Q7Tq0</a><br />
<br />
Novena Puerta kan deles opp i to. Den første delen er nok den tyngste
(8b+/8c), og kan beskrives som bratt og teknisk på mindre tak. <br />
Etter første del får man en ok hvil, før man blir brutalt kastet rett
inn i neste del (8b+), hvor det separat hardeste flyttet for meg kommer -
først en seksjon med noen tunge flytt etterhverandre, så rett til et
stabbe-flytt inn i en mono, hvor man mister beina. Det hardeste er ikke å
ta pendelen, men å treffe monoen. Videre er klatringen pumpende gjevnt
til finaleflyttet, som er en dyno fra et dårlig tak opp til godt
topptak...<br />
<br />
Greier å linke store seksjoner, men føler fortsatt jeg er et stykke unna sendings. Ruten ligger heldigvis i skyggen hele dagen nå som solen står høyere, så forhåpentligvis er det fortsatt litt tid igjen med greie forhold. Uansett, krysser jeg fingrene for rask progresjon!Hannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-868456246852428091.post-82618111753723509752012-02-29T13:23:00.000-08:002012-02-29T13:23:34.498-08:00Min første blogg!<span style="font-size: small;">Jeg har lenge vurdert å opprette egen
hjemmeside, men på grunn av manglende kunnskap til å faktisk opprette
en, tø jeg derfor til den lettere løsningen. Nå sitter jeg å skriver på min
aller første blogg! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Bloggen vil i hovedsak dedikeres til klatring, med andre ord, livet mitt.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Jeg ble introdusert med klatring
for ca. 11 år siden. Den gang var det konkurranser som gjaldt. Det var det jeg
trente mot og utelukkende det som ga glede og motivasjon for å trene
hardt. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Nå, etter mange år med konkurranser, har hele konkurranse-sirkuset
mistet mer og mer sin verdi for min del. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For ca. 2-3 år siden, gjennom
den siste tiden som "fulltids" konkurranseklatrer, ble det vanskeligere og
vanskeligere å finne noe motivasjon i det jeg holdt på med. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Det er rart
hvordan ting forandrer seg, hvordan noen ting kan gi mye mening på et
tidspunkt, men på et annet virke helt meningsløst.</span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1gCt5ZG9W3QvFJ0D-FYDo_dC1IFNUPS4UzGvIFR62bx8Z8ZqFMkiiqx0ot4IcLudDdLawrdTKznOl1m5UyUzmVaHwg60GtxjvpVavIBwTrFhJduqiiyYSWtJwYAtlLTy7c_5hYqwzBBA/s1600/Inne+%281+of+1%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1gCt5ZG9W3QvFJ0D-FYDo_dC1IFNUPS4UzGvIFR62bx8Z8ZqFMkiiqx0ot4IcLudDdLawrdTKznOl1m5UyUzmVaHwg60GtxjvpVavIBwTrFhJduqiiyYSWtJwYAtlLTy7c_5hYqwzBBA/s640/Inne+%281+of+1%29.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">"På jakt etter nye utfordringer"</span></b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;">Som reaksjon på
min manglende drive for å konkurrere, begynte jeg å kjenne suget etter å
finne nye utfordringer. Det var da jeg virkelig begynte å oppdage
gleden i uteklatring! </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Konkurranser har hatt sin glede det også, for all
del, men på sikt gir ikke konkurranseklatring den ekte motivasjonen som
jeg føler jeg nå oppnår gjennom uteklatring. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Jeg har aldri før vært så
motivert for å trene hardt og jobbe for noe som etter jeg skiftet fokuset til klatring ute. </span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Det
ironiske er, nå som jeg har funnet motivasjonen min, at det igjen er lettere å
delta på enkelte konkurranser. Selv om de ikke lengre betyr så mye og alltid vil komme litt på siden.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">For å hoppe rett til der jeg er nå, (og fortelle en lang historie kort),
oppholder jeg meg for andre sesongen på rad i Spania. I fjor bodde jeg i Lleida, kjørte mye rundt og prøvde mye forskjellig. I år derimot har jeg prioritert å kjøre mindre og heller bruke
mer tid på ett sted. Da Santa Linya er ett av de beste craggene i Catalunya, og for tiden
favorittcragget mitt, virket det som et naturlig sted å slå seg mer til ro.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">Santa Linya hulen har (sammen med Oliana) verdens største konsentrasjon
av harde ruter. Kvaliteten på rutene er høy, med en stil som i hovedsak er bratt og atletisk</span><span style="font-size: small;">. De fleste rutene krever en kombinasjon av pump og maksstyrke, noe som stort sett passer meg utrolig bra. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;">I fjor var fokuset i (den ikke fullt så bratte) høyresiden av hulen, hvor jeg fikk gått mine første ruter gradert 8b, La Mare del Tano og La Ruta del
Sol. </span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lsvBYiS903CdGN6elDrSqGWiKPpC0QBiCC91VEuS980uLZtWkkk0eoQP8YWYTpZZEYEuRcdl9n5Hs8hBsR-FSZyZFB69ATzfs76PKsuwN1oPJSG1aX6rFyuIxXwrFWtm_IgLNkS8PEU/s1600/Tano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7lsvBYiS903CdGN6elDrSqGWiKPpC0QBiCC91VEuS980uLZtWkkk0eoQP8YWYTpZZEYEuRcdl9n5Hs8hBsR-FSZyZFB69ATzfs76PKsuwN1oPJSG1aX6rFyuIxXwrFWtm_IgLNkS8PEU/s640/Tano.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: large;">La Mare del Tano 8b</span></i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdKcJShmAyNGVlhE1W5pC-E8QN4p1aIwtMryOASZlSX4ye-tKEtVz2SzNLmRPGoTU8Wt5mAjtGTDzulthRMAfj45joc1FDuJ_I2UuA77wjDQFAkRR65nu3zdrXsjCRX3EwkNDCWb5IlFI/s1600/Ruta+del+Sol.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdKcJShmAyNGVlhE1W5pC-E8QN4p1aIwtMryOASZlSX4ye-tKEtVz2SzNLmRPGoTU8Wt5mAjtGTDzulthRMAfj45joc1FDuJ_I2UuA77wjDQFAkRR65nu3zdrXsjCRX3EwkNDCWb5IlFI/s640/Ruta+del+Sol.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: large;">La Ruta del Sol 8b</span></i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;">I år har fokuset mitt vært mer på den brattere (og hardere) indre delen
av hulen. Jeg er glad i å jobbe på ruter, bli kjent med flyttene og se
hvordan kroppen tilpasser seg. Å jobbe på noe hardt, for så å prøve å gå
det, motiverer meg mye mer enn å gå mange "lettere" ruter fort. Nå som
jeg bor rett ved cragget har jeg muligheten til å investere så mye tid
jeg trenger for å prøve å gå noen (for meg) virkelig harde ruter. Så
langt har det resultert i to ruter gradert 8c! En grad jeg aldri en gang ville
ha vurdert å prøve på i fjor. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1dxSXu9UtCBRy2DFtRMVeAqUzNZPiZx1N7l2dh9vsjz2R7F-PmgZkxX9SFtwqSXeSqqDqtqJ_k_ydB9xZ9AxWPTtP6G4m6RjFi2wCqz08H_ljH-64SYMgkrfdkUUWBjTsJ2XNsKr91jM/s1600/Fabelita+1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1dxSXu9UtCBRy2DFtRMVeAqUzNZPiZx1N7l2dh9vsjz2R7F-PmgZkxX9SFtwqSXeSqqDqtqJ_k_ydB9xZ9AxWPTtP6G4m6RjFi2wCqz08H_ljH-64SYMgkrfdkUUWBjTsJ2XNsKr91jM/s640/Fabelita+1.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5tRZj1B6ZH2DSu08EkEwt7ptBzvnPpJFNN3bpwaSapwZVIkRmojergtR6S104ZUbA4XxFETjy5kdH3etnbWDUJlJ6rj_NA0QIm0ZsfalUfLQvQ1SxyUOMbwvk5at0A9qkuUQOETEcnE/s1600/Fabelita+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5tRZj1B6ZH2DSu08EkEwt7ptBzvnPpJFNN3bpwaSapwZVIkRmojergtR6S104ZUbA4XxFETjy5kdH3etnbWDUJlJ6rj_NA0QIm0ZsfalUfLQvQ1SxyUOMbwvk5at0A9qkuUQOETEcnE/s640/Fabelita+2.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: large;">Fabelita 8c</span></i></b><i><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXRzJcipvC4jYfjQNS5HscC0GMWOFSAq_3ByLNXAHQSU61AABmtZgW03Vi2pE24eMZDaUtDqof9dQg_10D7PrkLNCMjB3AxMu4EXeWBca02VSUlHD7rlvzqO8cfu2IZQVcZEu4utPCKiA/s1600/Rollito+1+.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXRzJcipvC4jYfjQNS5HscC0GMWOFSAq_3ByLNXAHQSU61AABmtZgW03Vi2pE24eMZDaUtDqof9dQg_10D7PrkLNCMjB3AxMu4EXeWBca02VSUlHD7rlvzqO8cfu2IZQVcZEu4utPCKiA/s640/Rollito+1+.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-NK4Zrd0h6fKrOmeqyVZmeBwKkn-eZZIt4Z32uKkLHlh9OzFP0mXbRDhVzcazPSK8qgYKx84HrEIGTBXfTa7bljYMeP0LMZB6ITcX2184enlWb13ecyiW-2UTFKLcbY1RUxQK06YRbA/s1600/Rollito+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-NK4Zrd0h6fKrOmeqyVZmeBwKkn-eZZIt4Z32uKkLHlh9OzFP0mXbRDhVzcazPSK8qgYKx84HrEIGTBXfTa7bljYMeP0LMZB6ITcX2184enlWb13ecyiW-2UTFKLcbY1RUxQK06YRbA/s640/Rollito+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: large;">Rollito Sharma Extension 8c</span></i></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: small;">Det
er veldig inspirerende å være her nede, man føler seg som en del av den
"globale" klatrekulturen. Kombinasjonen av de helt vanvittige
klatremulighetene, og hvordan man er omringet av flere av verdens beste
klatrere, gir en helt spesiell setting. Den gir meg mye motivasjon og selvtillitt til å
støte hardt, noe jeg er ganske sikker på har vært med på å pushe nivået mitt et
godt hakk opp siden sist sesong. For meg er det viktig med progresjon og
det føles utrolig motiverende å føle seg både sterkere og generelt
bedre til å klatre!</span>Hannah Midtbøhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10014511544780334698noreply@blogger.com6