lørdag 4. juli 2015

World cup circuit here we go!

Exited to do competitions again! This year I decided to do all the three world cups in Europe and the world championship in Munich. Already two world cups down; one in Grindelwald, Switzerland and last weekend in Innsbruck, Austria.
After not competing in any world cups for a while I didn’t really know what to expect. Though I knew my fitness was good and psyche high.

The first comp in Grindelwald was inspiring! Amazing boulders, and such a beautiful place. The boulders had a really technical and low percentage style to them. It was all about finding the right body position, with footholds close to nothing. A very European style of bouldering, where you're not able to cut your feet, or rely too much on pure strength. Instead of just powering your way through, you had to find the right sequence, which is always more interesting for both the climbers and the audience. Very good route setting!

Fourth quali boulder - not the most technical one

Kenneth showing some technical skills in Grindelwald
Even though I like this kind of style, I find it really difficult, and it’s very different from what I train on at home. I really need to improve and find time to work on more technical vertical/slab kind of bouldering:)
The second comp in Innsbruck was definitely much more powerful. The walls were steeper and the

Kenneth getcha's on the second boulder

style was more physical with pull-through moves and some double dynos. But I guess you never will escape the more technical boulders in the world cups. I struggled (again!) with the «easy, but technical»- boulders.
In the qualifier I got shut down by the first slab-boulder, the boulder that almost everyone did. Luckily I did the three next boulders, the more athletic and powerful once. The fifth boulder was (surprise, surprise!) a slab, by now I probably don't have to tell you how that went
Second boulder semi

The semis started (of course) with a slab. Even tho it was more of a dynamic slab, I got shut down. The rest of the boulders were all a combination of physical and technical. I thought they would suit me, but I just couldn't find the right beta on any of them.

The fourth and last boulder in semies

Regardless of the result I feel I have gained a lot of experience, and I’m really motivated to train on my obvious weaknesses. The boulders in the World Cups are just so different from what I usually climb on. Since I feel I have the necessary power, I will from now on be hanging out more at the less steep sections of the gym, doing more low percentage moves and getting rid of the trust issues I have with my feet.
Next World Cup for me, will be in Laval, France in just 4-weeks time. Until then I will be a busy bee, improving my weaknesses!

Happy travelers. Getcha power <3 good spirit

1 kommentar:

  1. Hm ja det ser rått ut......
    Vår klatrevegg blir jo som å gå etter gulvet i forhold 💪